FeaturesPulling Up Your Boot Straps
Cowboy Boots from Business to Bling!
The American Cowboy Boot has a long and glorious history—one that actually predates the Old West.
In 1847, S.C. Shive patented the patterns and crimping board for what was called a Full Wellington. They were based on a style worn by Arthur Wellesley, the First Duke of Wellington who defeated Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815. One could say this was one of the first fashion trends in boots. It was a two-piece boot popular among the military, horsemen, and adventurers of the time. By 1868 these boots were commonplace.
We can thank the military for bringing the boots out West and introducing them to frontier cowboys and settlers. However, the shoddy workmanship of unscrupulous boot contractors encouraged civilian makers to replace defective military boots. The business of American Cowboy Bootmaking was established.
By 1870, the standard boot worn by frontier horsemen was essentially a variation of military issue. These early Cowboy Boots featured oak-tanned Spanish leather that was heavily waxed on the flesh side. That quickly became the standard—but development didn’t stop there.
By the 1880’s the Cowboy Boot, as we know it today, began to emerge. Stovepipe tops, Lone Star and playing card inlays, stitch patterns and high heels became popular. Within 20 years, the four-piece boot had become the dominant form and bootmakers got creative in design colors, decoration, materials and heel heights and form. In the ‘20s and ‘30s, Cowboy Boots climbed to a higher fashion status as a result of the burgeoning Western film genre pumped up by stars such as Tim McCoy, William S. Hart, Bronco Billy, Hoot Gibson and Tom Mix. Since then there has been a no-holds-barred evolution of boot design and trend that continues to this day.
Today, bootmakers abound across the nation. Some are individual custom-makers who have specific clientele and cater to the needs of cowboys, celebrities, reenactors, sportsmen and the like. For the most part, however, today’s most popular bootmakers have gained a reputation for long-term dedication to the craft—and whose marketing departments jockey for position among the top and most popular brands.
Cowboy Boots range in design from basic to bling. And accordingly, so do the prices. Your basic working Ariat or Justin is perhaps the most popular with tough leather construction and a variety of trendy designs, soles, heels and stitching to make every pair stand out. For the working cowboy, the only way he would give up his trusty pair is if they just disintegrate or run away on their own at night when he’s sleeping! Moving up the line, styles and design run the gamut of exotic skins and colors with intricate inlays and artwork.
On the other side of the spectrum is the classic reenactor-style boots or the Western Frontier, which are still being manufactured. How about a tall stovepipe with an inlay of the Dead Man’s Hand of aces and eights? How about an over-the-knee set like those worn by Buffalo Bill? Yes, they are still being made today to the finest standards of bootmaking available. Makers like Boulet, Classic Old West Styles (cows.com), and Oak Tree (oaktreefarms.com) manufacture for the consumer.
But if you want a pair of custom-made Old West boots, look to David Espinoza of Phoenix, Arizona. Espinoza brings more than a quarter-century of experience, expertise and research to his reproductions of Old West boots. His boots are hand-made to order and use the finest leathers available. His boots are fully lined and feature the smooth, one-piece front, spur shelves, and traditional heels of the original boots of the cattle drive period.
Prices for the designer type boots can reach astronomical heights, but as the old saying goes, you get what you pay for. Take a pair of Blackjack boots with alligator bottoms and a Lone Star inlay—that’s a pricey $1800. Or try the Liberty Boots Muertos inspired by a skull ring worn by Rolling Stone guitarist Keith Richards—a mere $1995. To take it to extremes, there’s the Tres Outlaws Rinyin & Kyo that go for a whopping $25,000!
But don’t fear the prices. A good pair of boots for riding and working can be had for between $100 and $250 from makers like Ariat, Justin, Rocky Boots, Tony Lama or Nacona. For stepping out however, plan to spend upwards of $500 to $1000 for a classic pair of J.B. Hill, Lucchese, Caboots, Boulet, Old Gringo or Star Boots.
Since Cowboy Mounted Shooting is the most fun you can have with your boots on, go out and get a pair for all occasions. From the kick-around work boot to fancy dress pairs that make a statement, Cowboy Boots are an icon of our American culture and play a major role in our Western lifestyle pursuits. On horseback or on the red carpet, Cowboy Boots say something about who we are and where our values lie.
For research on this article we read A History of the Western Boot by D.W.Frommer II and Cowboy Boots by Tyler Beard.  Related posts:
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