Top Shots
Top Shots

Getting A Bead On Rifle Class
Four-time CMSA World Rifle Champion Matt Sronce has defined the class that even the most experienced riders approach with caution.
I got my introduction to Rifle Class at Festival of the West in 2001. A couple of friends said, “You’ve got to try this.” They gave me a scabbard and a rifle and I ran the course—and it was a pretty big hook for me. It was exciting and challenging, and from then on I was trying to find out what I needed and how to do it.
I’ve learned a lot in eight years about how to compete in Rifle. Some of the lessons are pretty basic, but important to doing well in the class.
When is a good time to start Rifle?
You should be a competent pistol shooter before starting with a rifle. But beyond that, you and your horse need to know and trust each other. Rifle is trickier than pistol; the two of you have to be on the same wavelength to safely and successfully ride the course.
If you are not used to shooting a rifle, be sure to practice on the ground before you try it on your horse.
Local shoots are a great place to try the Rifle Class out. There are usually experienced rifle shooters already there who are more than willing to help out new shooters and to lend equipment.
Choosing which rifle is for you.
My main competition rifle is a Cimarron Model ‘73 (.44-40) Trapper. I like it because we use a “3 in 1” blank, which is based on a .44-40 case. The model ‘73 seems to work the best for me because of its “lifting block” design. This is purely a personal choice; you may find a different rifle suits you better.
My wife Tammy uses a Cimarron Revolving Carbine by Uberti (.45 Colt CAL.). This rifle is a good choice for shooters who are not familiar with the lever-action models. The Uberti has the same revolving type cylinder as the pistols we shoot in competition. These rifles are not evenly distributed by weight—the barrels are very light—so it does take some practice to work out the best way to shoot it.
Where to put your rifle.
I like to position my rifle scabbard at the front of my saddle so it is within easy reach. If you decide to do the same thing, be sure the scabbard is sufficiently dropped, so its height does not interfere with your pistol shooting during the first five targets.
Some shooters like to secure their scabbard to the back cinch of their saddle to keep the front of their saddle clear. If you decide on this position, be sure your back cinch is relatively snug on your horse, so your scabbard doesn’t move around too much during your run.
There are other options, of course. Take your time to watch the rifle shooters at a major competition to see what works for the top competitors. One may work for you.
To drop or not drop the reins?
This is really a personal choice. I like to drop the reins on the rundown because it is less bulk in my hands. I know that all my Rifle horses will run straight and will slow down at the finish of the rundown. If you do not have this trust in your horse, do not drop the reins.
Champion Rifle shooter Theresa Cox has a small leather strap attached at the end of her roping reins and uses this to keep her horses on track and to also slow them down. This is a great option for people who want to retain some kind of contact with their horse.
If you decide to hold your reins in the same hand you hold the barrel of the rifle, be sure your reins aren’t too short. If they are, when you move your hand over to aim at the balloons, you’ll pull your horse off track—costing time and balloons.
Setting up for the barrel turn.
A rundown barrel turn in Rifle Class needs to be wide enough to sufficiently set up your horse in the correct spot on the rundown.
As you approach the barrel, you can lever the blank into the chamber to prepare for the first shot. It’s usually one of the most difficult shots in a Rifle rundown because the rider is busy turning the barrel and positioning their horse, all at the same time. It’s easy to become distracted.
If you go too wide on a barrel, it does add unnecessary time onto your run. If you cut the barrel too close, the first shot of the rundown will be very difficult; you may not have your horse properly positioned, which would cause him to cut through the rundown or fade out too wide.
If you decide to drop your reins, only drop them when you have completed your barrel turn and are lined out straight on the rundown. Dropping them too early will cause your horse to go wide and off track.
Keeping your horse on track.
A horse that cuts through the rundown will make your rifle shots more difficult. I never let my horses cut through—not in pistol competition or even during a warm-up session in the arena. Every time I make that barrel turn, my horses have to run straight through the rundown. No exceptions.
If you have any contemplation at all of competing in Rifle, never shoot the first rundown balloon on a cross-shot and then cut through and get the last four as strong-shots. This only tells your horse that cutting through is an option, and that creates bad habits.
Also be sure your Rifle horse responds easily to leg pressure. Your horse should be able to move off your legs in both directions. This is important because if your horse does move away from the rundown, you have the tools to put him back on track.
Finally, don’t let your horse fade wide or cut through on the last balloon. Always rein your horse straight until the end of the rundown—it will save you time.
Keeping it safe.
Always be sure to keep it safe. Have someone watch your in-gate until you gain trust in your horse and know what he will do. In warm-ups, be sure to trot and slow lope a lot of rundowns to reinforce what you expect of your horse.
If you are new to Rifle, always seek advice from a more experienced shooter. Take time to watch the Rifle Class at the major shoots and get an idea of what works for other people.
If you do those things, I think you’ll have as much fun as one can have on a horse and firing a gun.
I look forward to seeing you at the next shoot.
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